The city's history stretches back to medieval days, when it was actually an island fortress. Since then, its ports have been home to pirates and explorers alike.
Most notably, Jacques Quartier departed from Saint Malo to explore the new world and settle what would become Quebec. There are monuments to him and the Canadian colonies throughout the city.
Today, it's the top tourist destination in Brittany. Being right across the channel from England, it's considered an Anglo-Franco village because so many Brits spend their summers in the cottages and hotels lining the beach, but I still don't hear English nearly as often as I did in Paris.
The main city centre is the walled portion, called les Intra-Muros. From the outside, you see the ramparts lined with the flags of Saint Malo, Bretagne, France, and the European Union.
When you pass through one of the gates, you can choose to climb up to the wall or wander the narrow cobblestone streets. Walking on the wall around the entire city gives you incredible views of the little shops within,
and of the many beaches and the ocean on the other side.
It turns out Saint Malo is known throughout Brittany as having the most dramatic tides. At night the ocean reaches right up to the walls, sometimes spilling over onto the path, but when the tide is out it is finally possible to walk out to the island Grand Bé where Chateaubriand is buried.
Inside the walls is a bustling and charming village. There are souvenir shops, candy stores, artist galleries, and my favorite: the ultimate seaside French village cliché store with only striped clothing.
And then there are the bistros, crêperies, patisseries, and seafood restaurants. I could easily eat at a different place every day for a whole summer without visiting them all. But when you live with the family that owns the number 1 rated crêperie in Saint Malo, there's not really a point to even trying! La Crêperie Margaux is situated in an adorable square with gardens and a fresh vegetable market. I would describe it some more, but I think the crêpes deserve their own post really.
After wandering this maze of streets every day, I have started to notice that the street performers are on very regular schedules. For example, this guy sets up his magic show in a courtyard every day from 5 to 7, after which a contortionist pirate takes his place.
One of the most prominent historical attractions within the walls is the St. Vincent Cathedral. I haven't been able to go inside since they're restoring it, but it's very impressive from the outside.
I am still not bored with wandering the streets and walking along the seemingly infinite beaches. But there are still so many other places in Brittany alone to see!
No comments:
Post a Comment